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Page 63 text:
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and Raineses II and III. The gorgeous jewels found in the tombs delighted us and convinced us that the metal work of three and four thousand years ago has not yet been surpassed or even equalled. As we drove on, the pyramids became visible, gradually growing larger and larger. We followed the straight road for nearly five miles, reaching the Mena House at the base of the Pyramid Plateau in time for lunch. After rest and refreshment, we continued our drive to the foot of the Great Pyramid of Cheops, the largest in existence. The Pyramids of Gizeli are among the oldest monuments of the ancient Egyptians. Since the time of the Greeks, they have never- failed to delight and astonish all who visit them. In the largest, there are said to be 2,300,000 separate blocks of stone. It covers nearly thirteen acres. According to Herodotus, 100,000 men were employed in building it. The outer cover¬ ing of limestone and granite was removed to construct the Mosque of Sulton Hasan at Cairo. Leaving my parents in the carriage I selected three of the eager Beduins and went to the northern corner to ascend. Two pulled, while one pushed, thus making the climbing quite easy. The steps are about three feet high. As soon as w T e were well above the rest of humanity, my guides became im¬ portunate. They wanted to sell me spurious antiquities and informed me that a bakshish would be acceptable. The sight of my empty purse and of my watch chain with no time piece greatly disappointed them. The top was reached after two hundred twenty-six steps. The ascent was not in the least fatiguing. On the summit, there is a space large enough for a wagon to turn around. Napoleon Bonaparte had the apex removed so that he might lunch up there. The view, espec¬ ially of the Sphinx, Cairo, and the other groups of pyramids, was striking. The Libyan Desert with these gloomy monu¬ ments of antiquity had a very desolate and death like appear¬ ance. The fertile tracts on both sides of the Nile could be seen for a long distance. At the base appeared only a few pigmies
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Page 62 text:
“
are little better, morally, than the Mohammedans. The old Captic Church of Mari Girgis was first visited. We descended to the crypt below where Mary and Jesus reposed. The baptis¬ mal font in which the virgin is said to have wa shed the child’s clothes was also pointed out to us. The bronze reliefs, inlaid- work and old paintings are deserving of mention. The drive to the oldest Mosque in Cairo was well repaid. It is built in the style of the Roman temple, chiefly with stolen columns. A gray column in particular is very wonder¬ ful. One of the early Khalifs wished to make it fly from Mecca to Egypt, and, when it was reluctant hit it with his whip. Hereupon it did fly. The marks of the severe beating are still visible. On this column there is nevertheless a true freak of nature. Within a layer of thick, transparent marble, appear in lighter veins the Arabic names of Allah, Mohammed and Solomon. On the rear wall to the left is a niche con¬ structed of stone, where there is a deep impression worn by the tongue of the sick who have licked here. They rub lemon juice on their tongue and lick until blood comes. Then they go away with the satisfaction that their malady, however • severe, will be cured by Allah. The idea that people are healed by miracle is prevalent both among the Capts and Muslims. At our guide ' s request, some children licked for us. Before we left, a priest gave me the assurance that, should Islamism prevail, I would still go to heaven. A pair of columns is placed together and whoever manages to go through is booked for a place in heaven. I accomplished the feat with the great¬ est ease and prided myself on my Mohammedan salvation (?). The priest, a stout specimen of humanity, succeeded only after repeated efforts. The climax of our stay at Cairo was reached on the day that we visited the museum and ilie pyramids of Gizeli. Cross¬ ing the river by the Great Nile Bridge, we drove to the museum, which contains the largest collection of Egyptian antiquities in the world. On our first visit we spent nearly three hours in the roomy edifice. Especially interesting were the mummies of the kings, among which are those of Sethosi
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Page 64 text:
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walking around. After a stay of some time, I began the more rapid descent. This made the balls of my feet some¬ what sore, but otherwise I did not feel the unusual exertion. When I reached the ground, the water-carrier who had ac¬ companied me surprised us all by wanting money because I had not drunk any water. We next mounted camels for a ride around the plateau. As we left, my Beduins clamoring for more money could be heard for some distance. Our first stop with its examination of the Sphinx was the most interesting. With the exception of a few accessory blocks of stone, this gigantic recumbent lion is hewn out of solid natural rock. It is sixty-six feet long. The face is a representation of Amenophis III. This huge monument was used as a target by the Mamelukes and was thus horribly mutilated. Nevertheless its grandeur still remains. For a small bakshish one of the omnipresent Bedu¬ ins will climb into a hollow in the head, giving one a good idea of its size. A visit was also paid to the adjoining temple. The structure is built of huge stone blocks, the floor being of alabaster, while the sides and square pier are of real granite. One of the enormous blocks of stone is nearly thirteen feet long. One cannot leave without being impressed with the simple majesty of early Egyptian art. After visiting the second and third pyramids, we returned to Cairo in time for dinner. I could go on describing the many other attractions that occupied our attention, but, as you are undoubtedly much fatigued, I will now close. Yours truly, Kali-h Fuerbringer. Luxor, Egypt, February 10, 1900.
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