University of Nanking - Linguist Yearbook (Nanking, China)

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THE LiNeU1su7 97 Afternoon. The Lama Temple was most depressing in its atmosphere of gross superstition and decay. In contrast, the courtyard of the Confucian Temple, with its magnificent lirs and tall tablets on which are indelibly carved the Confueian classics, gave us a sense of rest, refinement, and reverence. Thursday. Early in our school days we read about the wonder Wall of China, built centuries ago to cheek the invasion of the Tartar Horde-s. The mountains at the Nankow pass are -rugged and strangeg we rode donkey- back to the foot of the wall. When we stood at the gate where the camel Caravans pass, and looked into Mongolia, there was no certainty in us that it was actually ourselves having this undreamed of experience. Friday. Morning. ,Lantern Street, .Bead Street, Brass and Silk Streets will never be forgotten, for there we left much hard-earned f ?l money in exchange for lovely blue and gold lanterns, would-be jade, and finger bowls. Besides, it was loads of fun to bargain. Afternoon. President Tsao's reception was just a tea party, for the gentleman did 11ot appear in person. Excitement ran high when, following this party, the Peking Language School volley ball teams played our teams, resulting in victory for Nanking in both the men's game and the womens game. - In the evening the usual nulnhcr of pedlers came to the hotel: -'I sell you cheap. Proper goods. First priceug and later NO 02111 ll0- No make money, but he would cut the price in half just the same. Saturday. As early as 8:30 tl1e automobiles were filled with f0lliS wld food. The Summer Palace of the Emperors was first visited. Entering through the Usual gate in the high rose wall, there stretched before us a lake of exquisite coloring, jade green and blue, except where the Wind tossed up laces of white, or where a duck carelessly flwted. O11 One side are the 193112106 buildings, with their sparkling tile roofs, and the most exquisite Of temples crowning all. Near by is the perhaps '500 famous marble boat. We tore ourselves away to visit the Jade F0l1U'GPil'l, the Temple Of the Sleeping Buddha, and the Western HillS-all reached by a paved road

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96 THE YEAR Since it was Sunday, the day was full of rest. and bath tubs full of h0f' water. ' March twenty-fourth. ' Morning. First to Coal Hill to look out across the city, and to acquaint ourselves with the city, to peep over the wall onto the shimmering yellow roofs of the Forbidden City. 'Then to Pei Hai and the imperial pleasure grounds about the lake that Kubla Khan drained. We wandered among the rock caverns, and found the colorful Dragon screen, alone and perfect before the ruins of a forgotten temple. T Afternoon: Our destination was the Temple of Heaven and the Altar of Heaven, that mounting pile of chaste marble where thc Emperor went yearly to take upon himself the sins of his people, and petition for their pardon. Words are mere shells in describing its terraced balustrades, the brilliance of the blue tiles, and the ancient trees that hang over its encircling rosy walls. Early to bed was essential, but the bedsrwere as hard as the floor of the car had bG8l1. Somehow we didnt seem to fit. Gordon Curtis decided to sleep on the floor on his pu gai, and he claims the floor was softer than the bed. i Tuesday. p Morning. The Forbidden City was entered by a gate that swings wide open only on special occasions, for it is inside this wall that the deposed boy Emperor lives in seclusion. Within also is a million dollar collection of Chinese art-jades, lacquers, bronzes, and potteries of delicate design and fashioning. We left the gold-green spaciousness of the Emperors throne room, awed by its magnificence. Afternoon. 'iThat's where my money went for at Mrs. Stewart'S home there was a bazaar where Peking wares were in display: beads, brass, silver, fur, Mandarin coats, and linens. Wednesday. Morning General Feng's camp was invaded by automobiles carrying 150 foreigners, including students from the Peking Language school. The camp was a model of cleanliness and industry. We appreciated the Gencral's courtesy in meeting 113 P0I'SOlmlly.

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98 THE YEAR over which travelling was so comfortable that we might have been at home. - Sunday. Rest, and packing for home. Trunks weigh more, suit-cases are bulging, and bundles and packages assume odd shapes. Monday. The rap of the bell boy on the door was insistent. We dimly recalled that the train left at 5:45 It was remarkable that no one was cross at that unearthly hour. But there was a tragedy. Dr. Woodbridge, who had been talking all week about my little boy, Didi, and my dog Pete, missed the train and was compelled to ride in luxury on the ' Blue Express Onr two special cars were parked at 'lfaianfu while we slept peacefully. Tuesday. Up early in preparation for ascending Tai Shan, China's sacred mountain. There are 6700 stone steps to climb before you reach the summit. However you may be carried up the mountain in a chair of wood and rope, made first, it is said, in Abi-aham's time and never improved on, for it was perfect in the beginning. The View is unequaled, and the beggars and pilgrims along the way are of ever-varying interest. Late at night we were again attached to a train bound for Pukow. Wednesday. Sandwiches began to go begging. We even forgot to try to remove a layer of train dust, because we were nearing Nanking. That meant bed and real food, and to Dr, Woodbridge. Didi and my dog Pete An unforgettable experience for only 55 l5 Mex. railroad fare! Much credit is due the committee who made the arduous job of traveling in China a pleasure, and who planned an itinerary both balanced and comprehensive. Thursday, April second. What is Chinese? lt doesn't seem possible that we could forget so many W0rds, and character writing is a vague memory. Here's to the Midnight Oil!