Stevenson (DD 645) - Naval Cruise Book

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Qamifmm . Ucmiimzecf the square. A conglomeration of all types of vehicles, automobiles, military trucks, bicycles, carriages and bicycle-drawn cabs, a headache to any traffic policeman, emptied into the square from side streets, filling it with a mass of humanity, noise and confusion. Veiled women walked amongst the multi- colored uniforms of all nations making it the scene of a veritable international assembly of life, color and activity. Le Cafe Internationale appeared, either from a distance or from within, as the meeting place of the city's military. Wine, beer and cognac could be had for a few francs, the price varying with the age of the blend. The atmos- phere within, in the early afternoon, was clear and a steady hum of voices, in many languages, could be heard. At intervals, a five piece male orchestra would mount a stage and play the popular themes of the day, such songs as Deep in the Heart of Texas transferring the thoughts of many Americans there to recollections of more familiar scenes and people. iMoving further into town, the shops and stores became more numerous and fashionable, yet the ever-present curios were much like those sold in the native stalls of the Medina. Rare perfumes and silks, tapestries and Persian rugs were displayed in most shops and elaborately carved 'wooden and leather ornaments reflected the effort of 'their creation in the prices attached. The shop owners were shrewd businessmen, a characteristic developed, most likely, from years of dealing with other Moroccan merchants. Bargaining with the shop owners required patience and tact. An offer of a cigarette might mean the difference between no sale or a markdown in price. The actual transactions are begun after the visitor says how much and the course of business finds the prices hashed and slashed with the buyer gener- ally leaving the shop armed with the results of his Yankee determination. Not far removed from the shopping district' stands the impressive looking Banque de France which became uncommonly alive this day, exchanging American dollars for French francs, a simple arrangement as long as one re- membered that two American cents equalled one franc. Although francs were used universally throughout Mororcco, at the time, the original American inva- sion money was still acceptable as a rate of exchange. , The west corner of the bank looked out upon another expansive square, known as Lyautey Park, named after a renowned French General who was directly responsible for the assimilation of French Morocco by France's colonial empire. A bronze statue of the general astride a horse was situated conspicu- ously in the park's center, dedicated in commemoration of his able administra- tion of the colony. The garden with its variety of flowers, grass plots, trees and hedges, showed that careful attention had been taken since its inception. Running adjacent to one side of the park were more open air cafes, the side-walks in front crowded with tables and chairs, nearly all occupied. Here the rich French refugee sat and drank, watching the life that unfolded before his own little locale, and next to him might be an Arab or a Moroccan, dress-ed in bits of clothes held together with a prayer, drinking according to his means. 13

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f emailanccz iganllmuecf 'On the outskirts of town, the Sultan's Palace draws the primary interest of any sightseer. An immense mansion with its carved figures of bronze and stone embellishing its exterior, surrounded by acres of green earth, a private pool for goldfish, and three military guards, clearly signified the wealth and importance of the man who symbolized these religious, political and financiai aspects of his race. On the perimeter of Casablanca, the Americans had es- tablished their air base, its fields packed with bombers and fighters ready for use, others still crated, undoubtedly some of which made the same 3500 mile journey we had just completed. On the shoreline, stretching north and south, one could see a maze of striped canvas tents, a bivouac of ,French colonial troops, who kept their horses nearby in groups, some taking theirs into the surf and bathing them. The second route leading back into the city brought us past the American Army field hospital, where soldiers, wounded in the fighting further north, were taken for medical treatment and recuperation. f Moving through the shopping district once more, we could see 'a glare of lights shining brightly from the square, defying the possibilities of a sudden air attack. It was night and time for revelry, the attitude of Casablanca's inhab- itants seven nights a week. Le Cafe Internationale was transformed from its cheerful, clean and quiet atmosphere of early afternoon to a noisy, smoky hall, smelling of beer, cheap wine and tobacco. ' Retracing the course of the boulevard, there were few people to be seen. The beggars had cleared their squatting places in the street and had slunk away to their quarters, sleeping out the night in some dark alley, doorway or gutter of the Medina. Leaving the cab where we had hired it, we passed through the gates fronting the landing pier and boarded a boat for return to the Stevenson. Riding toward the ship, we noticed the absence of the native rowboats and pilot boats but the other identifying marks made the harbor familiar looking even in the darkness. Qzdvmlzizfz On the fourth of the five trips this ship made to Casablanca we were for- tunate in being detailed to proceed with part of our convoy up through the Straits of Gibraltar. Upon entering the Straits the convoy was taken over by British escorts and proceeded to their destination at ports farther eastward in the Mediterranean. Meanwhile we were ordered to tie up at the dock for re- fueling. Though, our stay was short it was a memorable one. Onlyftwo sections were allowed to go ashore owing. to the fact that a certain percentage of the ship's crew had to remain aboard during wartime as a security measure. How- ever, the fellows who went ashore had an enjoyable time. 15