Stevenson (DD 645) - Naval Cruise Book

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Qamifmm . Ucmiimzecf the square. A conglomeration of all types of vehicles, automobiles, military trucks, bicycles, carriages and bicycle-drawn cabs, a headache to any traffic policeman, emptied into the square from side streets, filling it with a mass of humanity, noise and confusion. Veiled women walked amongst the multi- colored uniforms of all nations making it the scene of a veritable international assembly of life, color and activity. Le Cafe Internationale appeared, either from a distance or from within, as the meeting place of the city's military. Wine, beer and cognac could be had for a few francs, the price varying with the age of the blend. The atmos- phere within, in the early afternoon, was clear and a steady hum of voices, in many languages, could be heard. At intervals, a five piece male orchestra would mount a stage and play the popular themes of the day, such songs as Deep in the Heart of Texas transferring the thoughts of many Americans there to recollections of more familiar scenes and people. iMoving further into town, the shops and stores became more numerous and fashionable, yet the ever-present curios were much like those sold in the native stalls of the Medina. Rare perfumes and silks, tapestries and Persian rugs were displayed in most shops and elaborately carved 'wooden and leather ornaments reflected the effort of 'their creation in the prices attached. The shop owners were shrewd businessmen, a characteristic developed, most likely, from years of dealing with other Moroccan merchants. Bargaining with the shop owners required patience and tact. An offer of a cigarette might mean the difference between no sale or a markdown in price. The actual transactions are begun after the visitor says how much and the course of business finds the prices hashed and slashed with the buyer gener- ally leaving the shop armed with the results of his Yankee determination. Not far removed from the shopping district' stands the impressive looking Banque de France which became uncommonly alive this day, exchanging American dollars for French francs, a simple arrangement as long as one re- membered that two American cents equalled one franc. Although francs were used universally throughout Mororcco, at the time, the original American inva- sion money was still acceptable as a rate of exchange. , The west corner of the bank looked out upon another expansive square, known as Lyautey Park, named after a renowned French General who was directly responsible for the assimilation of French Morocco by France's colonial empire. A bronze statue of the general astride a horse was situated conspicu- ously in the park's center, dedicated in commemoration of his able administra- tion of the colony. The garden with its variety of flowers, grass plots, trees and hedges, showed that careful attention had been taken since its inception. Running adjacent to one side of the park were more open air cafes, the side-walks in front crowded with tables and chairs, nearly all occupied. Here the rich French refugee sat and drank, watching the life that unfolded before his own little locale, and next to him might be an Arab or a Moroccan, dress-ed in bits of clothes held together with a prayer, drinking according to his means. 13

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