Roanoke (CL 145) - Naval Cruise Book

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47-Af N: .74 W 2 K Hcfwcnty licks to thc board, O.K. sailors, heave Wound, ready, syncopatcn 'wwf' 1 2 155 .lin NB X xx

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Rear Admiral Carson receives local dignitaries aboard in Salonilea, Greece fifty miles an hour over narrow, clillfhanging roads riding on the horn. Frequently Popolopus would turn his head around, smiling proudly, to see if we were duly impressed with his power over his rasping horn. Entering into the spirit of the countryside, we pleaded earnestly with the local god Zeus to deliver us from this hotfrod Greek. Being outfofftowners, our prayers were answered considerably sooner than Popolopus would have liked, when finally the steam' ing bus coasted a few blocks past the ship to a miraculous Halt. It was then that Popo removed his hand reluctantly from the groaning horn. And .Q wx .M-rtsif QYQXQ ssft.Nzby.s . . zssgi, sg N-Nagel: as we filed wearily out of the death comet, he said, still smiling proudly, You lika', no? He would have been jailed long ago for reckless driving had he been a driver on the Indianapolis Speedway. Salonika, the ancient home of Phillip of Mace' donia, is located near the northern border of Greece, where Greece joins Yugoslavia, Albania and Bul' garia, and it was our next port of call. All was quiet when the Roanolee arrived there, although guerrilla warfare had ceased in the surrounding hills only a few months before. We were unable to visit the nearby Voice of America relay station, but we learned that it is the nearest transmitter of the Voice to Moscow, and transmits daily through the Iron Curtain to the Balkan countries and Russia. Here at Salonika we had to be content with the knowledge that we were making a diplomatic call, for there was little entertainment other than a few highfpriced pseudofnightclubs, and little sightseeing. An interesting sight that some of us saw was the remarkable American Farm School, founded a number of years ago by a Presbyterian mission' ary, which trains young Greeks in modern farm methods and itself maintains a model farin. It was the one place in all Europe where we were able to get a drink of fresh, cold, pasteurized milk. After tlie trip from Salonilca, our fleet landing in Naples-witli a battalion of guides waiting lieliind column at left Q46

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Bay of Naples, with Vesuvius in background City of music, flowers, and delectable food Restaurant Zi Teresa retains the charm of olol Italy N A P L E S Verdi, Veal, and Vino Naples is a charming city of paradoxes. Wide, clean boulevards cut through the city, but frequently they are intersected by cobblestoned alleys alive with odors, trash and lined with tenement houses, Expensive Mercedes and Fiats speed by antiquated taxicabs and horsefdravvn carts. Marbleffaced town houses and apartment buildings, once elegant homes of the rich, novv frequently shelter the poor in dimly lit, unheated rooms behind their faded pastel facades, The city is aglovv With brilliant flower stalls, yet only the tourists wear corsages. The Bay of Naples, surrounded by Vesuvius, Pompeii, Sor- rento and Capri, is an excellent harbor, famed for its prefwar shipping and its beauty on calm, sunny days 3 but the Bay is treacherous during storms, with svvamping Waves ten feet high, as the Roanolce dis- covered vvhen a storm followed her in the day after her arrival. Much of Naples has been rebuilt since World War Il to its former beauty, but human life carries on the tragedies of War. Destitute orphans scavenge the streets for cigarette butts, and it is a pathetic sight to see these thinffaced children beg' ging in front of the fashionable hotels. There is no resentment in their hollovv eyes when the expen' sively dressed guests step out of the thiclcfcarpeted lobby of the new luxury hotel, Albergo Vesuvio, there is just hunger and pain behind their out' stretched hands. Naples is Italy at her best and Italy at her Worst. No where in all Europe were we so beseiged as vve were in Naples by peddlers and hawlcers, salesmen and shortfchangers, guides and gyps, all attempting to sell or swap through the medium of handfvvaving, haggling and just plain hollering, a seemingly inexhaustible suppty of cameos, bracelets, jewel boxes, watches, rings, post cards and sou' venirs, tours and trips. All surged about us in a clamoring sea of salesmanship, through which We plowed resolutely on, knowing that Woe befell anyone who so much as hesitated at the cry, I giva you good price! He'd probably be found hours later sitting in the midst of a mountain of lcnick' lcnaclcs and trash, moaning softly to himself as he gazed mournfully at his empty poclcetbook. The center of Naples, so far as tourism is con' cerned, is Within the glassfcanopied expanse of the Gallery of Umberto, Where, at prices you felt were 14:48