Pennsylvania School of Horticulture for Women - Wise Acres Yearbook (Ambler, PA)

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Wtse-Acres - ----------------------------------------- —$+♦• most beautiful Viburnum to my mind is V. Carlesii with faint blush flowers, also in clusters and very sweet smelling. It is not a vigorous grower and needs no pruning as a rule. Unfortunately it is often grafted or budded on one of the strong growing common sorts, which soon swamp it, killing it entirely. It is best to propagate it from soft wood cuttings in summer. As a pot plant, gently forced to open its flowers a little earlier, it is most welcome. Viburnum Wrightii is very attractive in fruit, as they are bright red, small and hanging in clusters. Spireas are represented by many species, too, among the most popular of which is S. Van Houteii, and S'. thunbergi. The former is found in most gardens, as it will grow anywhere, and the white flower clusters are so numerous that they obscure the branches. It should be thinned out after flowering, cutting away the wood that has just blossomed. Spiraea prunifolia is a double form, the flowers being closely clustered on long upright slender branches. The leaf is like that of a plum, hence its name, and it is the true Bridal wreath. It has not an attractive habit of growth and if not pruned after flowering gets very thin and bare at the base. Spirea bumalda, Anthony Waterer, is a favorite. It is a dwarf, upright shrub bearing rose colored flowers in flat heads at the ends of the shoots in summer. There are two or three species of Hamamelis or witch-hazel, which flower when there are no other shrubs in bloom and when most trees have lost their leaves. Hamamelis virginiana will open as early as October, often before its own leaves have fallen, the golden, narrow petal led flowers and pale yellow leaves making a pleasing combination. It is native, as is also H. vernalis, which is less showy, but fragrant, flowering in winter. H. mollis comes from China, and H. japonica from Japan, and they both flower in February on bare wood, showing up well in a winter landscape. Among flowering trees the Crabs and Cherries stand first for beauty of blossom, some species of the former also being lovely in fruit. Malus floribunda is well named and makes a small tree with long slender branches, somewhat drooping and covered thickly in May with clusters of small pink flowers. M. f. atrosanguinea is a deeper color, but both get pale as they open more fully. The Bechtel crab, M. ioensis, makes a moderate sized, round-headed tree. It is one of the best, having large double pink flowers that seem like miniature roses. It is said to be a natural sport. Malus Scheideckeri bas a rather stiff habit of growth, with the flowers closely clustered on the stems. It is pink and semi-double, and small plants in pots are very attractive when gently forced for greenhouse decoration in spring. M. floribunda can be used in the same way. These crabs are not particular as to soil, and need no pruning beyond shaping the head when young and a little judicious thinning of the wood when older. We have planted the above varieties

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School o] Horticulture sunshine in summer seems to ripen the wood well, so that it can stand the frost and produce abundant flowers, whereas in warmer climes the wood is soft and winter-kills, or else does not flower so freely. I would not suggest that the same holds true of other flowering shrubs. We in England grow species of Cytisus, Berberis, Ceanothus, etc., that die here, and nothing could be more beautiful than some of our flowering trees and shrubs, but our joys are scattered over a longer period and are not quite so intoxicating. First and foremost, I think, stands the Flowering Dogwood, Cornua florida with its masses of white blossoms, which later give place to clusters of red berries. My first acquaintance with this shrub was at Kew Gardens, London, many years ago. There were four blossoms on it, naturally giving no idea of its real beauty. The pink form of the dogwood, C. . rubra, now grown in gardens is very lovely, and the leaves of both forms turn a beautiful red in autumn. The white one can be propagated from seeds. Sow one inch deep in fall, and just before the ground freezes cover with a heavy mulch of leaves, in fact, treat them as nature does. Another method is to stratify the seeds in sand over the winter and sow in the spring. Dogwoods transplant badly and should be moved carefully when young, in the spring. The Lilacs (Syringa), do not flourish so well here, but are still worth growing. They are so often allowed to get tall and straggly, so that the flowers are too high up to be seen from the ground. If the shoots are cut back every year directly after flowering, to a joint or bud, the bushes can be kept dwarf and compact without loss of future flower. I have often cut back large limbs, one to two inches in diameter, to a good branch, quite successfully, gradually getting the bush back to a more dwarf shape. At the Arnold Arboretum, in 1926, all the lilacs were cut to the ground, as they were getting too tall. In May, 1927, when I saw them, they were growing from the base and some were flowering, and I heard that in 1928 they had grown and flowered well, but I did not see them myself. Hedges can be made of lilac if it is pruned once a year, immediately after the flowers are shabby, and so treated they bloom every year. Keep dead heads cut off arid syringe in February or early March with an oil spray to check oyster scale. There are a great many species of Viburnum which are not at all difficult to grow. The flowers are cream or white, and many of them are followed by attractive red or black fruits. Viburnum opulus is the Guelder Rose and has an outer ring of sterile flowers with large petals, the inner ones being fertile with small petals. The flowers are followed by clusters of red juicy berries. Viburnum (opulus) sterile has all sterile flowers clustered as a snowball and, of course, has no berries. Viburnum tomentosum, is even more attractive with its long horizontal branches thickly studded with clusters of white sterile flowers. The

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School oj Horticulture . - a» - in the garden here, as well as M. prunifolia, M. theifera, M. micromalus. The Japanese cherries are finding their way into American gardens and are hardy in this state; in fact, many of them are hardy as far north as Boston. One of the first to flower is Prunus subhirtella, the spring cherry of Japan. It has slender branches covered with pale pink blooms which fade to white. The weeping rosebud cherry, so popular in gardens, is P. subhirtella pendula, and no tree is more beautiful. Prunus yedoensis is the species that was presented by the Japanese to the United States Government, which planted them in Washington. When in flower they are a sight worth seeing and attract many visitors. Prunus subhirtella (Beni-higan) and P. yedoensis (Yoshina) have been planted in the spring and autumn gardens at Ambler and are growing nicely. Primus avium, the native European cherry, is not much grown here, but E. H. Wilson, of the Arnold Arboretum, reports it as hardy there, and speaks very highly of it. It makes a well-balanced tree with a rounded pyramidal top and bears pure white flowers in masses which almost obscure the branches. The double form is even more lovely. There are many more shrubs and trees as beautiful as those mentioned but space does not permit any further detailed description. A few remarks on propagation and general care may be useful. Any good garden soil will suit most shrubs, but it is worth while to double dig with manure or to prepare a deep hole for each. Spread the roots out well if the shrub is not balled and burlapped, trimming any jagged cuts with a sharp knife. Work the soil well among the roots and tread firmly. Before putting back the final layer of soil give a thorough soaking. During the first year watch closely and never allow to suffer from dryness. Soak frequently and thoroughly and mulch with well rotted manure. Pruning of ornamental shrubs is an operation that is often overlooked or badly done. It is not really difficult and can be reduced to a few quite simple principles. First, there are those as Weigela, Spirea, Viburnum, that flower in spring or early summer on the wood formed the previous year. They should be thinned directly after flowering, cutting out the shoots that have flowered to allow light and air into the bush to ripen the new wood for next year’s bloom. Pruning too hard may result in a spurt of soft sappy growth that does not ripen enough to stand the winter. Second are such as Buddleia, which flower late in summer at the ends of cuiTent year’s wood. Prune in early spring by cutting these shoots to two or three buds from their base. Shrubs bearing flowers and berries are a little harder to prune, but the best way is to thin out carefully in early spring after the berries have gone. The crabs and Japanese quince bear their flowers on spurs and need little beyond a light thinning after flowering or in early spring. Most flowering shrubs can be propagated by cuttings or layers.