Pennsylvania School of Horticulture for Women - Wise Acres Yearbook (Ambler, PA)

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out the centre when the plant is about fifteen inches high and it will then branch out and form a compact plant. In cutting the blossoms—evening is the best time—cut as much stalk back as possible and plunge the stems in boiling water for a few minutes and then in cool water. In the fall do nothing with the dahlia plant until after a black frost, then cut it down to within one foot of the ground and allow the sap to return to the roots. Usually after a frost we have some pleasant weather and the tubers may be allowed to cure. Never take them up when they arc filled with moisture. If the root remains in the ground after it has been cut back, it will harden. In faking up the tubers, choose a bright, sunny day and go to the plants early in the morning and lift them up with as much soil as possible; turn them upside down on a board and let them remain until three or four o’clock in the afternoon, then store them temporarily where the air can circulate and dry them naturally. They should not be put away permanently for the winter until they are thorough- ly dry and the soil has fallen off. Then store them where there is no heat but a temperature of about 40 degrees, varying as little as possible. It is best to inspect the tubers at least twice a month during the winter. If any decay is found, cut out at once and sprinkle with lime, and if some of the roots are shrinking separate them from the others and sprinkle with water once a week. Most tubers are lost after February 1st, therefore give more particular care to them during February and March. The following are the principal insects that attack the dahlia: the cut worm—treat the ground with vermine—this is a liquid gas and, to be effective in killing all insects and eggs, it must be applied after the soil has been thoroughly soaked with water; the white fly—treat with aphine: the chinch bug—it appears on the flower bud and cuts a hole in it, causing the flower to develop on one side only—spray with Paris green early in the evening and repeat on every young bud that appears. Ida L. Mills. 15

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“Dahlias are among the hardest flowers to grow unless you understand them,” so began Mr. Maurice Fuld, of New York City, in his lecture on dahlias given to the students and friends of the school. We would indeed have been discouraged at the outset had he not immediately given us the assurance that with the proper attention to the natural requirements of the plants, as beautiful blooms as even the most ardent dahlia enthusiast could desire, can be obtained by the amateur. In March, if you would be a successful grower, carefully examine and sort out any clumps that have died out or have rotted in storage and discard them. Those that are successfully carried through to the first of April, spread out on the floor, water down and cover at the crown with sphagnum moss. About two weeks later a little growth appears in the neck of the root and the clumps are ready to be divided. In dividing, always leave a connection between the tuber and the stem. It is of interest to note that the old tuber has only to do with the stem and leaves, while a new set of roots is responsible for the flower growth; and that often the finest plants are grown from the smallest tubers. After the roots are divided, pack them in sawdust and allow them to remain there until about May ist, when they can be planted out in the garden in as sunny a location as possible. The secret of growing the dahlia is to “keep it growing” from the moment its roots are planted until the blossoms come out. The needs of the plant are air at the roots at all times and moist, cool weather. There must be moisture on the leaves as well as on the roots. That is one of the reasons why dahlias grown along the sea-coast are so superb. A light, open soil is best—pure gravel is even highly satisfactory. If the soil where you want to grow your dahlias should be heavy add sand or coarse ashes to it. A poor soil, strange to say, is really to be preferred, for if the land is rich there is heavy top growth at the expense of flowers. In setting out the tubers allow three feet between each plant and four feet between the rows, stake and label each plant. With the coming of July, it is best to cut the plant off down to the ground and thus give it a chance to start a new growth. In the three weeks which elapse before the plant is again above ground, the attack of the white fly which occurs about July 15, is avoided. And, furthermore, the plant now makes its ideal growth, for the dahlia develops best in those months that have cool nights, and in this climate they are August and September. The plants need frequent cultivation, but only that of the surface soil and for a distance of about twelve inches around each plant. Liquid fertilizer should now be fed to the plant about once a week, for the time has arrived to look for the flowers. Apply sulphate or muriate of potash, one pound to fifty gallons of water. To get the larger blooms, disbudding is practiced. The buds usually form in clusters of three and by removing two of these all the -strength of the plant is sent into the remaining bud. Certain dahlias grow too tall and in such cases it is best to nip 14

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 A tErip ©ijrouglj tije drmtipmse by |lrnxy Upon a recent week-end visit to the home of a friend, I was asked this most astonishing question. “What do you do in the winter out at the school? It seems to me that there is nothing in that line of work that can be carried on during the cold months, unless one has a greenhouse and even then I shouldn’t think there would be enough work for all of you students.” “That’s where so many people make a big mistake,” I replied, 4 winter for us is almost as busy as any other season of the year, for we are preparing for the spring and summer as well as doing the actual winter work in the greenhouses. You had belter come out and see for yourself, we would all be glad to have you visit us.” “Much as I would like to, I fear I cannot spend the time; but would you mind telling me what you are doing in your greenhouses now and what plants you raise? You know I am so interested in the work.” “Certainly I will. Suppose I take you through by proxy.” “That would be lots of fun.” “We have three greenhouses and I will first show you through house No. I. This is divided into two sections. Just imagine walking into a very warm, moist room where the temperature is from 70 to 73 degrees and you will be in the first section. In here are those plants and seedlings which require this high temperature; also the propagating beds. On the bench at the right are rows of young ferns in tiny pots and next to them are boxes of canna roots just showing green through the sand and flat pots in which have been planted seeds of asparagus sprengerii. These seeds were soaked in water twenty-four hours before being planted, to hasten germination. Next are our tuberous begonias which were planted about ten days ago. Near by are some queerly covered pots, and if you should peep under this covering of moss, you would see four lily-of-the-valley pips embedded in pure sand. By giving them quantities of water and heat we can force them into bloom in eighteen to twenty days. Close by you will come to our most interesting and often difficult work, the work in connection with the propagating beds.” “Please do tell me more about them.” “These beds are built over the pipes on the south side of the house. In this way the little cuttings are given bottom heat which is necessary to make them strike root readily. Additional protection is given them by covering the beds with frames —either glass or muslin and sometimes both. Inside the bed there is a good layer of drainage and then about ten inches of clean, sharp sand. For propagating some plants, it is necessary to sterilize this sand, so susceptible to disease are their cuttings. Just now we have geranium, lavender’; coleus, fuschia, vinca, antirrhinum and alternanthera cuttings in several of these beds. Another bed is devoted to begonia leaf cuttings. These are held down flat in the sand by means of toothpicks and then the veins are cut and from these incisions roots develop, making new plants. As many as 40 little plants can be obtained from one leaf by this method. The varieties in the bed are Rex, President Carnot, Semperflorens and Glory of Cincin- 16