Oriskany (CV 34) - Naval Cruise Book

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Shilded canals and graceful Sohdolas make Venice a city is K s On the three-day tour, every Oriskany sailor saw the Basilica of San Marco, the outside of which seemed oriental and mosque-like. Inside, the mosaic floor was uneven and wavy as if it were laid on water instead of mud. Palaces built by merchant princes of the XVI and XVII centuries stood up from the wateris edge on the Grand Canal. The Palazzo Crassi, visitors were told, had recently undergone renovation. Its marble floors and gilded ceilings awed the Yenetians themselves. They felt civilization had declined in the last few hundred years be- cause new buildings in the city and even in America displayed no such Iavishness. But historians noted that actually it was Venice that had declined in commercial power and private wealth and that tastes in architecture had changed from ostentation to more subtle show of power. Some of the old places, like the Ducal Palace and the Danieli, had become museums and hotels. With the decline of Ve- f-7. 0 1 rm T j Ill of romance.

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EIE 1 1 E - V ,M , 4 gov , ,, 4 a . N THE main street of Venice early last September, an Oriskany sailor stepped off the curb to climb into a local taxi. His foot slipped and he fell into water over his head. Thatas what distinguishes Venice from every other city in the world. Taxpayers never have paid for paving their main street, the Grand Canal. A visitor could get around town in only two ways: by boat and on foot. Rails ended at the station west of the city. Automo- biles parked in a garage near the station. But still it was easy to get around. Local taxis? They were high-powered gondolas. Busses were ferry- boatsg private limousines were speedboats, and trucks open launches. Early in the morning, launches crowded around the railroad yard and truck terminal to load up with fresh vegetables and canned go0dS for grocery stores. Around ten o'clock, housewives rode ferries down- town to do daily shopping. At sunset, gondoliers bent their oars and sang Italian arias for sentimental couples, not usually going ally- where in particular but just wanting to be alone under a canopy be' neath the moon. In addition to the city,s 150 canals, there were innumerable wind- ing lanes passing over 378 little bridges. Some lanes were Wide enough to ride a bicycle without scraping the buildings on either side but walking was better. At almost every bridge, a bike rider would have to dismount and climb the steps. The Rialto, Venice's most famous bridge, rose more than 32 steps above the water. Luxury shops and restaurants lined both sides of the main walkS downtown. Store windows around the Piazza San Marco displayed Hue Venetian glass, Bronzini neckties and belts, silver and gold jewel- ry and rare gems, and handmade laces. After shopping and Sight' Seeinga OfiSkany officers and men drank aperitifs and black coffee at tables in the square. UPPGI'-From their Lido Hotel, named after Shakespoc-nre's 'fill' MOOY, Oriskuny sailors sforl on o sigh!-seeing tour. Lower-Condemned men once walked across the Bridge of sinh' from the Doges' court Oo the old prison ai rlgllf. . -

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St.YMark's and the Staircase of the Giants are seen from the compound of Right-A salesman exhibits in- laid Venetian glassware. Lower left-That blob of glass will soon be an item of beauty. Lower right-While the master molds a costly centerpiece, ap- prentice boys huff and puff to cool the rubbery glass. the Doge's Palace. ---- 'fwi,.fav Milli lsr fi -- - fi,m'x'?imuecl netian power, the whole city had be- come a museum and a resort. The beaches on the Lido, across the la- goon, attracted tourists from all over the world. Venice welcomed the American sailors hospitably. Husky gondoliers fished out the sailor who fell into the canal. A baker, making rolls for morning, gave him a change of clothes and a chance to clry off near the ovens. 2 pi if r ii fiflr Z 4 X 5f'ff f5'.Q'?a f 91s7+w.,Vxs5L