Kenneth Whiting (AV 14) - Naval Cruise Book

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On entering the mouth l i;.c vi..-....,c, are intrigued by the colorful lunks. men crowd the rail and - — — eJi gsf ♦--■ PEARL OF THE ORIENT — Victoria (loreground) and Kowloon (across the bay). These two make up Hong Kong, Red China is just 35 miles across the first mountain range. to be 125,000. These floating dwellings include not only big ocean-going junks but tiny sam- pans as well. Most of the genuine boat-people belong to one of two races — the Cantonese (or Tanka) and the Hokla, a tribe of sea-gypsies originating in the China province of Fukien. The Hoklo live almost entirely in sampans, which scurry like water beetles unafraid through the busy harbor. To watch them nego- tiate the traffic among the ocean liners, in what appears to be complete abandon, is often hair- raising indeed. The New York Harbor Commis- sioner would perhaps go amuck watching such nonchalance. But Hong Kong is one of the busiest harbors in the world, and with 70,000 fishermen within the Colony, they can ' t let any- thing like a few dozen ocean liners deter their haste toward a livelihood. Hong Kong ' s fishing fleet is probably the largest in the world. It is made up almost en- tirely of owner-operated wooden junks, mostly propelled by sail — and most colorful they are. The principal fishing harbors are at Aber- deen and Shau Ki Wan on Hong Kong island and on the outlying island of Cheung Chau. Aberdeen is a popular tourist attraction, its floating restaurants, in which the diner selects his own fish and has it cooked while he waits, affording a new gastronomic thrill. Hong Kong is quite homogeneous. Of the two and a half million residence, the over- whelming majority are Chinese. Semi-perma- nent Europeans and Americans, mainly British, total some 14,500. Temporary resident foreign- ers account for 2700 more, with a sprinkling of Portuguese, Indian and Eurasians. This 99 percent Chinese population are main- ly farmers and fishermen. There are 500,000 refugees in every sense of the word; 300,000 constituting a squatter problem. This means over-population. Only twenty years ago the figure was 800,000. More than a million have flocked in since the war. More are coming every day. ABERDEEN — Home of thousands of fishing junks. Junk City was one of the major attractions of the Whiting sailors. Thu celebrated junk. On vessels such ab lliiii, vviicle iair.i cire born and die, never knowing any other home. 48

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HONG ■nsmx Our visit to Hong Kong was first an experience, then as we learned more and more about this phenomenal Pearl of the Orient, it turned into a fascinating ad- venture. We found that like a promiscuous vamp it has many moods and faces. And although we stayed only twelve short days, an education was instilled into all. Watching a sunrise from Hong Kong harbor is a spectacle. We marveled at the shimmering shafts of light as they danced and richocheted off the tall, gleam- ing architecture that clings to the hillsides; and above. Mount Victoria loomed tall and erect with a sprinklmg of clouds crowning her head. With each new dawn this esteemed lady would smile down and bid us hello. Moments later the harbor would come alive with the intriguing water people beginning their performance. And a major production it is, too, as they play a major role in Hong Kong ' s daily success story. Their existence is an enigma to all Westerners. Not a few of them are born, live their whole lives and die in their boat homes. The population of the Colony ' s junk city is estimated 47

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WE WENT SHOPPING Most ot the boys purchased qiits heie. Inere is no haqglmy over puces, liko in most shops, as this is an approved merchandise mart. The courteous, helpful and effi- cient policeman. They are reput- ed to be scmo of the v orld ' s best. He not only puts you in jail, he ' s also the prosecuting at- torney . . . and he seldom loses ■:i case. . ' . ' ALUABLE SERVICE— These voluntary workers, directed Dy Father Gilligan, steer a V hitmg sailor on the right and inexpensive track while in Hong Kcng AND LOOKED THE PLACE OVER , JPy ' M PEDDLERS — The women do the rowing and the men collect the money. THE T ' A ' O-DECKER TRAivi — You may iiae either first or second class ... no one seems to know the difference between the tv. ' o. tn i «» STREET SCENE — Black paiumas and the split dress are popular ladies ' at- tire. All Orientals are camera-shy. Note lady covering face. Selling mostly souvenirs. On arrival cf an American ship, dozens of such sam- pans surround ship.