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Page 32 text:
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1 in x - 5-1. Q I J' ,.r.'?ysf::nt 1 15 1 I V- A 'iff-' AVS' few il9fJ12iQL5fa1- 1 . ta it ' -,XLHM '. ,, , , N .n,.,, . .-2. -i, . '--1 ::'v.2f2S'. ta34isis: ,-ff ,..- as-.,. s, . .. , . ?'ffi,w,f 1-lar?-aww wiphrk . f ,a W . a ,, ,, fi-Fiiqik' V '4-Q-:E-:-Eff 4 . I '- ,Q-L, --, 4 lj--3, ,, ' ,.--i7 4s'b'4,j,fz',:,f5g'-:'g,g?4'ry, y,,i,' . -' if 1v.'iI',?gQ1 ,A 1 ,figfig3-,sy-Q,-Q',.'ejgf-gf.-,'.fr,fmgf,g,gf1..i,' gi- Tjfl-Wil ,S Q-f Q .lp j :'.-:fy 'Fi 'ffiflj' ., Y . ff V i7'w ' i 'V ff' ' , ' Q. fm' ., ., , X . .. 'A ' ' ' flat ' i ' ii', 'F4?f-H f ' - ' ' 1- ' ' A ' - f f 1 ' if ii:-,ii ' 1' . -ws.-53:2 1, ,, -f , i. -Ju X A 1 Q , , ,.- 55 f AJ f jf ,:.g'f.,j: , f ' 1 'T - fi ' 5 f ' ' i .if-ff if 1 l ' ' - L ' ' 214,-'M'-'f'-M1.'4---. f , A .552-MQ -J 2' if A' - , 3 'X I I: I - Qi ' H 'f it ,f. .,. L? By JEAN HOLLY RICH The artists who create the chic and startling costumes for the cinema stars have one of the most difficult jobs in the motion picture industry. Not only must they be versitile in sketching and designing, but it is necessary that they also combine the talents of prophets and magicians, as the costumes for a picture have to be ready about nine months before the film is shown. So that the styles will not be hopelessly out of date by that time, the designer must be able to forcast the trend of fashions months ahead, and the ability to do this requires nothing short of genius. XV ith the ushering in of technicolor, a new problem is added to their worries, for it takes a great amount of skill to choose colors for the costumes that will not only combine perfectly with each other and suit the star's personality, but will harmonize well with all the sets on which they are worn. When a picture is being put into production, the script is divided into sections, and the number of costumes needed is checked. The script is then sent to the designer, who studies it carefully and makes his sketches, oftentimes creating his designs to fit a special background, such as a sweep of a stairway, a garden arbor, or some other impressive setting. This is one of the reasons an ordinary woman could not possibly expect to copy for her own use the exaggerated and extreme gowns which are worn by her favorites on the screen. Next, shoppers are sent to buy the materials for the costumes, and in this, great care is taken to choose fabrics of the colors and textures that photograph the best. In the picture Romeo and Juliet, Adrian was so anxious to have every detail his- torically correct that, after a futile search all over America and Europe to find fabrics that would be nearly exact replicas of those worn during the period in which the story was laid, he had them especially woven for him by experts right in the studio. ,-j2jj5g,f5aX VVhen the materials have been approved by the director and producer, the designer makes a perfect form lining of the star, so that she will not have to stand for numerous fittings, and a copy of the costume out of cheaper fabrics. Not until all these steps have been taken is the designer ready to work on the real creation, but when it is finally completed, whether simple or elaborate, it is a masterpiece, perfect in every detail, a gown which enhances all the beauties of the star, brings out her personality to the fullest ex- tent, and covers up any defect in her supposedly per- fect figure. Few people not connected with the motion pic- ture industry can realize the money, time, and pains that go into the designing of costumes, which are only seen on the screen for a few brief minutes. In mak- ing the famous feather creation worn by Marlene -- ,',,w,k,g , ..,, af RJ ' .- bf! , ,. ..t.. .- Qi -,EQ 4212,-.3 1 A. v '. I ,f - as,e.,.,?. 1 ., Us L M .F A fini ff ax gg? 'H+ f , 'fr Q,-gg- Q.. , It 'gffef it-:f , 21511. i --Z' -155,4 74. is-,,,,gsi1 V -, 7i '.3Tifl ' . A -- it 'L 1 ' ' .fs Efqfiif' if:-. Q gf Fztf' .. Air Q-1, ,F I' at 4 x ' ff 5' Til: ti 'A .g pe we-: , Q t EW 'K -' ,442 . .. mg 'i X f 4 x -x -.3 , 1 1 ps. f ,Q W , . at X ff Alf .Q A gx , E X v uf' M 'J 1' 'X -I 3 xgvf ff 1- A ,ag ' 'QS i r ff' ' js, x ' ,L QU x if' 7 , I I x 1 he , hd, 1 J 1s Q, ,if f., t it .1 fm- ff-4 -. 2 ,- at--,' -' ,QT wwf? 4 i if l i ya: ,, - -1:-Q -if 'sg' - Q K ,-EW' ' ' f 0:3 xp.. -sql. .: 170' -' MIN' ' fix V- 1 if 'X 'bf-'Iwi ' 3213- . i f' -,S-.',1: ara f -' .1-Q ,ag , -zz., 1.-an J,-z :ep s.3a-,,- vs: f.-sf L arf: re- ' f P fik- Ig- i - , . 13.3 ,-1-'f ' -fs U ' 'MA vig us --2 . 4-Q' - f- ,,. -' 1, J 3.-:1-ef:,:: 1-' -2. 1. is - -' 1-qs ' g,.L '.f.,1., 5.1-',g,'.w.-J. al-Q Lew-gf.. . -:V-lf! i , vs,-,ff 'fi xr-siif-'1 A 1'-L ' we '. - . Vg-:H:.7,u?Q3f1l2' wx, a' iii? ki' - Tw MW . : 'S Q' 1 3 2--'-qi FW.. U-F , 'fiiii ,s-A 751 32 X ' 5,5 '44 e-Q,1,,?' .V in ' J I5 1 'I
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Page 31 text:
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Films are often elzcmged for e.1'f1o1't trade with these facts in n-zind.
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D1Ct11Cl1.111 'Shanghai Erfpiessf' Mailene and the designer spent hours 111 trying each feather in various positions to gain the most alluring effects. However, the end fully justified the means, for this gown created a sensation, and started an entirely new epoch in the trend of fashions. Great pain are also taken in the research for historical costumes, and the results have been the gorgeous creations seen in Cleopatra,,' DuBarry, Cardinal Riche- lieuf, Scarlet Empress, Naughty Mariettaf' Anna Karenina, Crusades, ff 37 Ro111eo and Juliet, and many others. After gazing at these lovely gowns, which only real artists could design, our hats are certainly off to those men and women who .,.. . ,K I u In create the dazzling raiment of the stars. l A . tl., . 1 4 1' of un? 1 xt W1 A AND PQWDER 'i4'2?15f. ' Eli ,:':?3'i, i'J',iiih. ,. f GREASE P INT 5 11 rl vi. ,ff ' By JEAN HOLLY RICH lt' 2 W ' 3 VZ. L, . ,'i2A lm,v'l,y'i' A 'll . ' 1' ' 3- flil-fgf:fj., In every studio 1n the glittering film capitol Ji 'V IS-Cf, effigy, ' , ,,s of Hollywood, are found the clever make-up I., V '- A artists whose duty it 1S to make a hundred mil- '-ffgj, ju-,A-,.1 , g5gi'xx lion women green with envy every time they see 5 t n., flEl'f?f'gi their favorite stars on the screen. . mhyp . J a , .5 .,.-5,1:,- -- g ff.,gsfQ'i1Q3j.'31 .11 a 1Ei'3a f3.3 i1 .g.. , , . . j.s 1ei. -gf 4 King among these dabbers in grease paint and -f zgj , powder is that most famous of all cosmetic ex- C ' if perts, Max Factor. He supplies the entire movie wwf: V- -1-:, 11gj,15:f f mdustr with his sbecial anchromantic make- 'fl 65' iff .aff - ' 7' y - ' ' ,.- , QW. up, and has a beautiful studio of his own, one '5 . of the finest research laborator1es 111 the world, - lii5,5i5mLj5'.Kgf 37'6i?g jf ,Q and a library where fashions of any age can be ,, I-J, I, . A :W ,:..: . .. . '-,.r.. V' reconstructed. It is to be feared, however, that his make-up, which produces such glamorous effects in the films does not look very alluring on the stars off screen, and no wonder, for it is usually of a dark orange or tan color and as shiny as a new dollar. The reason for this is, that in making them up, the artist f1rst applies a deep tinted grease paint, over which he dusts coatings of powder so that the players' faces will not look sickly and pasty under the bright lights. These lights are not hot enough to melt the heavy grease, but because of the effects of white faces before a camera, all the players are made up, more care naturally being given to the princi- -mf, -'Q ,. 1-Ref:-Ersbgiz. 1:- ,f?e:o.1g.z-esa . 1.1 iv ff.,.'.x15: . .q...M.N c, . .1 - ' ezxsgf 3 -' 'I ii: 'CZGILEJ , 4 - -Q--.-V-rt-.Ve c.-,- fa ' ::s.:sQ.1.. 1--'sf 1--- XV ith the use of the new teclmicolor process ' k1,- g H the heavy, dark make-up will have to be shelved iii, 'lii T i WM if in favor of a lighter kind, and the base applied , gm if '.,'f 5 up bfi very carefully so as not to be detected by the W' 1 lwgff '-!l' f ,Q ' nf ' ' delicate color lens. Y .i ' fffijff-Q' . ' Our monsters may find that they also are up -- :fx K? 3, 5 3 J Y 'W against a bit of a problem, for all the grotesque .if . 'io, + and horrible scars, wrinkles, bulging eyes, - 1 ' shrunken faces, etc., which make us shiver at .ii . the sight of Frankenstein and the other spooks, ' ' Z V'w., ' b,- are produced by the clever make-up artists. On 1-, , , if i C -- X their ingenuity depends the amount of thrills xg and chills one gets when he sees his favorite .. l-f i f Q .. . Hend on the screen, and it is amusing to note A A ' A that these 1nen often spend a half hour making if',' . kV,-,'l .G one star as lovely and enhancing as possible, 'if C' filif .Q 'V . . 'fig iii' Q A and then turn around and throw all their talents ...,' 5' , ft 1', C if - A into the creating of a terrible and hideous 5 . Q Q monster. gli., N f It is said that one must suffer to be beautiful, j-'fiif' r but there are many movie actors who have to . Q suffer to be ugly, and we can really pity the poor il horror 111611 of the Elms for the hours and hours -A A'i they must sit being 1nade up, before they are - , gf ,-, Elf L C ready to go out and scare little children Cand grown-ups, tooj. 4' Uv J' xr - . S.. 'fLi3fi1 ,j:. we P , ,ff ' M 'f' if L . f ' , ' QQ, : -my ,, Y A 151- , .agua 'E' ' 5 THX, ' , e -a n-,gr . N , V - A. 53312 1, -.121 V. ' 1 ' 1 .w x .ss :gf,g-,-,- - K 1 , ,iz I Qgzggws.. .Hag-g.,3h,+ X. MA , A rw A '-f A-5.5555 '-lj!t','igjf. . t ' ' Q .541 a PHQEBE 'GALE
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