Glacier (WAGB 4) - Naval Cruise Book

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We arrived for our second port call in Valparai- so, Chile, on Nov. 20. Most of the crew spent their time sprawling on the beach in Vina Del Mar. Some took the day tour to Santiago, the capital of Chile some 70 miles inland. The rest contented them- selves with the more epicurean delights to be found among the closely built, a nd very weather- beaten houses of Valparaiso itself. Founded in 1536 by Viego De Almagro, Valparaiso was already inhabited by the Changos, an Indian tribe that lived off the sea and traveled the shores in canoes made of sea lion skins. The port lived a rather dull life until English privateers started to plunder the South American coast line in attacks against the Spanish throne. A lot of Chilean firsts happened in Valparaiso. The first Chilean newspaper in 1811, the first battle of Chile ' s war of independence in 1813, Chile ' s first Naval Squadron sailed from here in 1818. The first steam- ship to sail the Pacific was launched from Valparaiso in 1822. Her sister city, Vina Del Mar, was founded about 10 miles to the north in 1874 from the Hacienda of a wealthy port resident. It has become popular with tourists and the nicer hotels are in this section - also the homes of the more affluent Chileans. Ancient and modern worlds coexist. 66

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PUNTA ARENAS Punta Arenas, the southernmost city in the world, sits on the western shore of the Strait of IVIagellan. Originally a penal colony, in 1847 the town was founded to establish Chile ' s claim to the Strait of Magellan. This is still its major function. It was a coaling station for ships until the opening of the Panama Canal. It was both the dullest and yet most looked forward to port; being the last outpost of civilization between us and the ice. Shopping was minimal; the major bargains were hand knit wool scarves and hats saying Punta Arenas. Sold from a families living room and made to order. A few of our hardier naturalists and joggers took off for adventure in the rolling scrub hills and stiff refreshing breeze surrounding the town. Meanwhile, most of us headed for the local watering hole Cabo de Hornas where we enjoyed the luxury of real beds, steaks and beer. Punta Arenas was basically bland and uninteresting offering only a chance for us to escape our 310ft. home for a stretch of the legs and soul. The only noteworthy event was the tragic nonarrival of our mail. Many futile hours by our Post Office and Supply personnel were spent waiting at the small airport awaiting the mail which never came. However, all agreed it was one of the friendliest if most spartan airports they ' d ever had a chance to visit. Overall, we were quite glad to bid a final farewell to this port of three visits and head north in search of more luxurious ports and the mail, which was still flying aimlessly about the Americas. 68