Darrow School - Shaker Post Yearbook (New Lebanon, NY)

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The Peg Board 1936 SHAKER COSTUME Figures 1 and 7 show the worship costume of a. man and woman, Figure 2, that of the field and shop laborer, Figure 3, an elderg Figures 4 and 5, traveling costume, and Figure 6, a half-dress costume. Reproduced from Harper's Magazine, XV Uuly 1857D, 165. SISTERS IN EVERYDAY COSTUME Reproduced from Harper's Magazine, XV Cjuly 18575. 170. 62

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1936 The Peg Board THE TRUSTEES' OFFICE AS IT is f Fe I I I I I III 423 THE TRUSTEES' OFFICE AS rr wAs Shaker Dress By EUGENE WEST, '36 here have been many changes in the dress of the Shakers since the founding of the Society. It will be sufficient herein, however, to describe only the basic style of their dress and a few of the most important changes which it has undergone. The early Believers accepted the simple, plain form of dress that prevailed at the time of the founding of the Societies, but no rules were laid down, so the garments of the Hrst American ' ' ' h 1 'f it in converts varied in form, color and quality. After the organization of the Churc , uni orm y dress was inaugurated. 1792. 61 1. The organization began in 1787 and was completed in

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1936 The Peg Board At that time the men's Sunday attire consisted of a dark blue coat, the front edge of which was nearly straight. It had six or eight large buttons and buttonholes, only half of which were slit to take buttons, and from the last button it was cut back at an angle of forty-five degrees. The coats were pleated on the side seams near the bottom, and in the back were divided into two sections which overlapped slightly. The vests were of the same cloth. In these, as well as the coats, were large pockets with flaps. The collars and cuffs of the shirts were made of a stiff material, white for dress and blue for ordinary wear, fastened by a buckle. The cuffs were six inches long and the collars two to three inches wide. As the shirt sleeves were long, a blue silk ribbon called a sleeve-tie was fastened around the arm below the elbow to secure the sleeves in place. Black lasting breeches with buttons at the knee were worn on the Sabbath and also while taking journeys. Coarse trousers were put on at other times. Beneath these were long black stockings supported by a strap and a large brass buckle. The calfskin shoes were also fastened with straps and shoebuckles. Hats were of fur or black wool with low crowns and wide brims. Aside from differences already mentioned the ordinary clothing was the same as that worn on Sunday except that it was of cheaper quality. In 1805 breeches were discarded and trousers substituted-an economy measure. In the next few years drab cloth displaced the blue because of the difficulty in obtaining suitable dyes. About this time, too, the cut of the men's garments was improved and modernized. Hooks and eyes took the place of buttons on the coat. Shortly thereafter, suspenders were adopted. Next shoe buckles were laid aside and shoestrings substituted. A light colored, striped, short-sleeved linen gown was worn by the women. Over this they wore a checked apron of cotton, which replaced linen in 1800, when the sisters learned to card and spin. Under the gown was an extended dress reaching to an inch or two above the floor. Its sleeves were cut off just below the elbow. These were of darker colors, usually black or blue. For many years shoulder kerchiefs were also worn. The sisters' millinery consisted of a fine cap, usually linen, trimmed in front. In 1787 a hat braided of straw, called a chip hat was adopted, and it was used for about twenty years. It was covered inside and out with black silk. From these the Shaker bonnet Csimilar to those worn by the Friends or Quakersl was evolved. The bonnets are still seen in use. They are made of pasteboard covered with light colored silk, the crown being cloth or palm leaf fitted to the head by plaitingf We have traced summarily the stages of Shaker costume. This quotation from an article in Harper? Magazine,-Iuly 1857, shows how the dress appeared at that time, since when it has not greatly changed: . . . there were children, too, with cheerful faces peering out from their broad hats and deep bonnets, for they were all dressed like old men and women .... With the exception of resident elders and some visiting brethren the men were in their shirt sleeves lat public worship in the Meeting Housel. Their Sunday costume consisted of pantaloons of blue linen with a fine white stripe in itg plain vests of much deeper hue made of linsey-woolsey, calf-skin shoes and grey stockings. Their shirt collars and bosoms are made of cotton, like the body. The collar is fastened with three buttons and turned over. The women wear, on Sunday, some a pure white dress, and others a white dress with delicate blue stripes in it. Over their neck and bosoms were pure white kerchiefs, and over the left arm of each was carried a large white pocket-handkerchief. Their heads were covered with lawn caps, the form of all for both old and young alike. They project so as to fully conceal the cheeks in profile. Their shoes were sharp-toed and high heeled.' From Sister Emma, who formerly had quite a business selling Shaker cloaks, we hear this interesting fact about Shaker cloth. A skirt made by the Shakers from iridescent cloth of their own manufacture was so fascinating that little boys and girls followed the wearer in an attempt to touch the cloth, inquiring whether it was leather. It is without doubt true that in the manu- facture of clothing the Shakers were as skillful as in their many other trades. nib, the som-es from which this information il drawn, nee The Manifesto. XX K-Tune 18907, 121-128: Uuly 18905, 145-147: Only 3. 'xv 11850, 188 ff.. 63