University of California Berkeley - Blue and Gold Yearbook (Berkeley, CA)

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First of all, let ' s clarify the distinction between fashion and style. Fashion is the momentarily agreed-upon fad, the typical look of a particular group of peo- ple. Now style — style belongs to the in- dividual, and is made up of various fashions determined by such factors as social and economic class, gender, geographics, and ethnicity. Add to this the impact of the continuous advertising that caters to that particular person. All these overlap like large circles and leave a little dot somewhere uncovered that ' s style. That ' s you. Clear? At Berkeley alone there seems to be more than thirty thousand styles. But, sadly, this isn ' t true. We ' ve got Stoney decked out like a deranged professor who lost his tenure — it adds to his ap- peal. We ' ve got the Polka Dot Man, of course, and Julia with her bubbles, books, and balls — eye, that is. Let ' s not forget Roy Lisker ' s fat polyester ties and his endless sawing of Vivaldi to bits, sometimes with orchestral accompani- ment, sometimes to jazzy-sounding word repetitions. Yeah that Roy ... And there ' s Frank Moore, the guy in the wheelchair asking pretty women to ... Besides being a very flashy dresser, the man can talk. Yes, we ' ve certainly got our share of characters, and they ' ve cer- tainly got their own style. The funny thing is, though, that most of the real characters are just being themselves; in fact, most of the students are just being themselves, and so are most of the street people. But even being themselves, there still exists the question as to whether he or she is be- ing stylish or fashionable. On the face of things, Berkeley is home to large groups of people from different areas of Califor- nia and the country, from different social or economic classes, of one ap- parent sex or the other, and of various races. All these factors are somewhat mediated by the fashion climate already existing in Berkeley, i.e., the stores and advertised tastes of a college town in the San Francisco Bay Area. This climate caters to a variety of prevalent styles that are either native or have migrated to the area. Berkeley is a city of polarities. Each group is distinguished primarily by social and economic class. The button-down oxfords and cords or 501 ' s that are so dominant in the fraternities and sororities function to make the Greek community seem over-self-consciously middle class. The street people, those relics of by-gone liberal hippie days form another definitive set. Some of these people have a highly developed personal style and attitude, and most of the familiar characters mentioned earlier are still touting a kind of sixties idealism as they ask for contributions. The fact that this group of natives also forms a kind of fashion grouping is a testimony that people professing a certain style do conform to momentarily agreed on fashions. We can also form polarities of fashion Fashion Ad-Dressed With Style

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this the editors treat the magazine itself as an art form by em- phasizing the personal styles as well as the unity of purpose of the artists published. The magazine is organized along the lines of Birth, eros, 5 to 11 am; life, philia, 11 am to 9 pm; and Death, agape ' , 9pm to 5 am. Submissions are in a variety of media-prose, poetry, essays, photography, drawing, painting, printmaking, sculpture, xerox collage, performance art, and music. By distributing this art in a handsome package in stores around the Bay Area and across the country, we hope to bring our vision to the general community. If we realize that art can be life, we might realize that life can be art, and seek quality in all of our endeavors. When Thomas Jefferson was planning the undergraduate cur- riculum for the University of Virginia, he thought it entirely ap- propriate to include in it requirements for the study of law. His notion, common at the time, was that law study was a branch of liberal leaning and that, like other liberal arts, it could stretch the California Pelican. mind ' s limits and encourage sustained reflection on fundamental human values. He also thought that law was far too important a part of the American scene to be left to the lawyers alone. If the American system were to prosper, thought Jefferson, its citizens ought to be educated in the fundamentals of law. The California Legal Studies Journal is a forum for undergraduates to analyze various legal-related issues, which en- compass broad social, economic, philosophical, and political con- cerns. The purpose of the California Legal Studies Journal is to en- courage wide-ranging, cross-disciplinary scholarship and writing by interested undergraduate students of all majors and academic backgrounds. What unites the contributors, or those who submit articles to the Journal, is a common interest in the law, its theoretical underpinnings, and its place in society. Because of the relative newness of the Journal, the ideas and in- put of all committee members, that is, the editors and those on the business relations staff, necessarily affects and determines the future direction of this publication. Therefore, the Journal offers motivated and responsible undergraduates the opportunity to utilize their skills and creativity outside the classroom context and California Legal Studies Journal. to see their efforts realized in the production of a high-quality publication. Similarly, by providing undergraduates with a medium for their work, those on the Journal staff hope to en- courage students to explore the relationship between law and society and not merely view law as the realm of the lawyer. Founded in 1903 by Earl Anthony, the California Pelican , over 30 years older than the Harvard Lampoon , has served the Berkeley campus and community for many hilarious years. In its rich and colorful history, the Pelican antics have been as notorious as the issues themselves. The Pelican has also hatched some top talents such as Rube Goldberg and John Carroll. In 1951, founder Earl Anthony donated $200,000 to the University to build a home for the Pelican . The Pelican Building, or Anthony Hall, stands to- day as a monument to the magazine, and is particularly well- known as a fine example of the Maybeck architectural tradition. Among Anthony ' s other achievements is the fact that (it is claim- ed) he invented the concept of a gas station. Before the advent of the gas station, gas could only be purchased at car dealerships. This year ' s Pelican has been a tremendous success, producing the first profitable, non-subsidized issue in many years — an almost unheard of phenomenom in the publishing business. The California Pelican hopes to continue to live up to its reputation as Cal ' s greatest humor magazine. California Legal Studies Journal 1985 A Journal of Undergraduate Legal Inquiry at the University of California, Berkeley

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North versus South, East versus West. Southern Californians have made a big splash on this campus, perhaps because Los Angeles fashion is apparently homogeneous but also isolates from the rest of the country. Accusations of Bar- bie Doll Republicanism have been leveled at the LA or Valley Girl influx, often by those who are just as image- oriented. They cannot deny that the universal conception of bright mellow sunny California has been richly com- plemented by the LA look. The war between East and West seems less intense. Perhaps this is because the East Coast, the Northeast in particular, is the home of the preppie who sports a more refined native subur- ban look. It is the look of pink oxfords, LaCoste pastels with green khakis, and topsiders or penny loafers. Easterners in the Bay Area (like myself) have a lot to reject and a lot to keep, and it seems a relief either to meld into the native look, suburban or nostalgic Californian (twen- ties ' hawkstooth bla zers, candy pumps, etc.) or go punk. This last is a nationwide fashion that seems to be the young generation ' s response to its 60 ' s flower- child forebears, and to a certain extent, New Wave is part of the same response. This fashion entails mohawks, cellophane-dyed hair, spikes, black leather, armbands and even, to some extent, the dark Bogartian overcoat. It is interesting that these national fashions — suburban preppyism and Punk New Wave — exhibit little polarity between the sexes: unisex seems to be the newest wave of national taste. One potentially enriching source of fashions which is horribly downplayed in our integrated and cosmopolitan town is the international or ethnic look. It is too bad that a kimono or a dishiki worn in public might be considered either trendy or foreign. I suppose it ' s fair to assume that Berkeley, for all its racial diversity and liberalism, is still a very American, and therefore Western, city. All this talk about fashion has pro- bably either raised your hackles or left you in the dark as to the basic question of what might be your own style. Most students come to college a little tired of the jeans and t-shirts or cords and button-down apparel. When you get down to it t hough, spending big bucks in Marika or Sunshine Fashions might land you in some fashionable duds teat just aren ' t you. Spending fewer bucks at Aardvaark ' s or Buffalo Exchange might go further towards establishing a new you. Keep in mind one thing: being stylish is not necessarily being fashionable, and vice-versa. Style could be the way you express your resistance to all the fashions you know you ' re a part of. Phil Inje tt 47 IS